Bring on the Treats

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Visit any dog supply shop, and you’ll be inundated with dozens of varieties of dog treats: chewy treats, soft treats, crunchy treats, treats made from fancy cuts of meat and custom-created doggie cakes. The options can be overwhelming!

Dog treats are big business. Americans are estimated to have spent 38.4 billion dollars on pet food and treats in 2020, according to the American Pet Products Association. The increased spending on treats is driven by dog lovers’ awareness and demand for higher quality ingredients and attention to what ingredients are included in the treats, where ingredients are sourced from and how they are processed.

Debbie Phillips-Donaldson, editor-in-chief of Petfood Industry and Petfood Forum explains that basically all the trends you see in pet food these days also apply to treats, often spilling over from human food. Trends like high protein, limited ingredients and natural (or organic) foods, as well as addressing specific pet health conditions, like gut health, joint and bone health, and skin and coat. You’ll also see the trends in newer, less traditional formats, such as freeze-dried, baked, etc.

Debbie says that these “are growing, just as they are in pet food. And yes, trends or concerns like sustainability, sourcing, animal welfare and the like, are also at play in treats as they are in pet food.”

Essentially the current trends in dog treats are mirroring the same trends we see when it comes to the snacks people buy for themselves. We all want our dogs to have the best, healthiest, highest quality and yet the most enjoyable snacks possible.

Break down the size

Is it possible to have too much of a good thing? Dr. Ernie Ward, author of The Clean Pet Food Revolution advises dog parents to be thoughtful consumers when it comes to treats.

“The savvy, health-conscious pet parent of today has to wade through a lot of marketing and claims and attributes. If it looks good or they have an inviting message or the dog just devoured it and if they love it, I’m going to give more and more.” Dr. Ward explains that the emotional response of guardians wanting to give their dogs more of what they like is understandable but can lead to health-related complications like obesity, which is the most common preventable disease with American dogs. Unfortunately, as much as our dogs love treats, and as much as we enjoy giving them, the treats we give our dogs can quickly pack on the pounds.

The quality of the treats you give is important, but just as important to consider is the serving size. Dr. Ward notes that “dogs don’t do division,” meaning that dog treats might come in one size, but you don’t need to give an entire treat to your dog — you can break it in half, thirds or even smaller.

I train a lot with treats in day-to-day life, as well as sports with my dog. Even though she’s a giant breed, I break all treats up into very small pieces to use with training.

Become a calorie counter

Do you know how many calories your dog should eat per day? Most dog parents don’t! Dr. Ward says to talk with your veterinarian to find out about how many calories your dog needs in a day. According to Dr. Ward, your dog’s treats “should not exceed 10% of your dog’s daily calories per day.”

Do some math based on the calories listed on your dog’s favorite treats. However, Dr. Ward explains that treat manufactures are not required to include calorie counts on their packaging, but that higher quality and generally healthier treat companies tend to be transparent about calorie information. He considers it a red flag if calorie information isn’t included.

When picking healthy treats, you’ll see that calories can really start to add up when treats involve carbohydrates and proteins. Dr. Ward actively encourages health-conscious dog guardians to look for treats that are single ingredient because “we can be a little more assured that there aren’t as many opportunities for contamination.” In addition, these treats tend to be easier for dogs to digest, and limited-ingredient treats tend to have lower calorie counts.

When calculating the percentage of your dog’s daily calories that are going to treats, don’t forget to factor in all the treats you give during the day, including peanut butter you might use for stuffing in chew toys or the chews you give your dog when you leave the house.

Use veggies for treats

If your dog is aging, has pancreatitis, diabetes or other health issues, it can be tricky to find a treat that won’t aggravate his pre-existing conditions. Dr. Ward explains that he is a big fan of giving dogs vegetables as treats.

“The majority of dogs love baby carrots, they love celery, they love sliced zucchini, and many dogs find them just as satisfying and appetizing as commercial treats.” These are the only treats that he gives his own dogs on a daily basis.

Dr. Ward encourages dog guardians to talk to their vet about what functional treats exist that could support your dog with an ongoing health condition, such as joint supplements to help with arthritis, instead of giving your dog a treat without health-building components.

©Fotoeventis | Getty Images

Treats are important

Talk to any good positive-reinforcement trainer and they will tell you to have lots of treats ready. We spoke to a member of The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), who explains that “use of treats in training” falls under the very broad concept of positive-reinforcement training if applied correctly. IAABC promotes and adheres to a standard known as LIMA (Least Intrusive Minimally Aversive interventions for behavior modification).

Jenny Efimova, a Karen Pryor Academy certified training partner and owner of Dogminded, explains, “We train with food because it’s an effective, versatile and portable reinforcer. It’s usually not something we have to work to make valuable for the dog, and there’s a large variety and options we can find for every dog. Another important benefit of training with food and positive reinforcement is that dogs will develop positive associations and emotions with us, the training and the training environment. How dogs feel while learning is just as important as what they learn, since it will impact their overall behavior and well-being.”

One of the questions I’m asked most frequently as a trainer is “When can I stop using treats?” I like to counter by asking, “When was the last time you went to work without getting paid?” Dogs deserve reinforcement just the way we do. This idea was echoed by Jenny, who notes that when incorporated into your training, “food is reinforcement, not a bribe. No living organism does things just because. What drives behavior is reinforcement. Using food as reinforcement allows us to teach new behaviors and give our dogs clear information about what works.”

If you’re concerned about how many treats your dog gets during your training sessions, use some or all of your dog’s meal as part of your training. Instead of putting all of his meal into the bowl, put some into a training pouch to use as rewards while you work with him during the day. This makes mealtimes more enriching and keeps your dog from adding on extra calories from treats.

Won’t eat treat?

Just like people, some dogs are picky eaters. If you have a dog who’s uninterested or ambivalent about treats, it’s likely he just hasn’t had the right kind yet.

For picky pups, try several treats with a variety of textures and flavors to see what your dog likes best. You may also need to experiment with different kinds of proteins: chicken, pork, beef or fish — even crickets might be what gets your dog’s attention. For very picky eaters, sticky or extra smelly treats can be particularly appealing.

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How to Get That Pill Down

The post How to Get That Pill Down by Dr. Ernie Ward appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

“Told you she wouldn’t take it!” There I was, sprawled on my exam room floor, desperately trying to coax a capsule into the maw of a beast known to many as Sugar Bottoms. I was losing this clash between canine and human that threatened to dethrone me as the Tamer of Tablet Takers. But this champion wasn’t giving up yet. I had yet to reach inside my left coat pocket.

The best medicine can’t help if your dog won’t take it. As Honey Princess (aka Sugar Bottoms) was proving, giving a dog a pill, tablet or capsule can be a challenge — and then some. Over the past 30 years of veterinary practice, I’ve identified three of the toughest tablet takers along with tips to get meds down the hatch where they can get to work healing your pooch.

Before we start, many of you are thinking, “I just pop the meds down, simple as that!” And to you amazing humans, congratulations. Even better when it’s the dogs who are awesome like that. For the rest of us, read on.

Prying open a dog’s mouth and shoving a pill down their throat can:

✤ Be terrifying for the dog

✤ Potentially cause injury during the struggle

✤ Create fear and distrust.

Did I mention it’s just not very nice? Let’s focus on less intimidating and more compassionate methods.

The Picky Pill Popper

Concealing your dog’s meds in a favorite treat is undoubtedly the easiest, and most successful, method. Coating capsules with peanut butter, spray cheese or honey or concealing them inside a veggie dog are my go-to tricks. Wrapping with cheese or stuffing in a banana or bread slice, baked tofu chunks or sausage also works for most puppers.

To amp the appeal for even pickier pooches, try burying the dose in a hunk of canned puppy food. Few can resist the aroma and flavors of a growth formula’s high fat levels. If that fails, try plopping in baby food or hiding within mixed-texture foods, such as a scoopful of rice and beans or meat. Sometimes by adding meds with mixed, crunchy consistencies and aromatic foods, they’ll forget a pill is in there.

The Spitter

The Spitter wins by either coughing up a pill you’ve worked hard to get down or after he dissects and devours whatever you hid the medication inside. If you know, you know.

The winning tactic with a Spitter is to make it nearly impossible to separate pill from pâté or make the taste so doggone irresistible, he wouldn’t dare miss a morsel. Most of the tricks used on Picky Poppers work here, but you may have to level up your game to win over a Spitter.

Sometimes, simply increasing the size of the food you hide the meds (half veggie dog to whole) helps discourage selective spitting (“It’s too much goodness!”) and other times a change in flavor profiles (more salty, sweet versus savory, etc.) is what the vet orders.

Regardless of your approach, always observe your dog until you’re certain the meds are on their way to the stomach. I once had a patient’s thyroid levels fail to budge after three increases in dosage. Turned out the clever Cocker was covertly chucking his meds behind the couch. Secret Spitters can be hard to spot.

The Clencher

The Clencher is without equal when it comes to refusing meds. He is infinitely picky, able to dig out the most cunningly concealed pills — and good luck if you try to wrest open these jaws of steel. This is when I reach into my left pocket.

Before I share my final measure to medicate, I’ve got to admit it’s not foolproof. I’ve found that if I try too many tricks, the Clencher becomes wary of my motives, and nothing will persuade that pill down. If this happens to you, I’ve discovered that giving a food reward (or three) without the meds and trying again in an hour or two is the only smart move. If you escalate your efforts and forcefully cram the pill down, you’re only going to make the next dosing more difficult.

When I’m out of options, flopped on the floor, unable to wipe the tears of defeat from my eyes because my hands are drenched in doggie drool, I crack open a can of the smelliest, goopiest, most succulent kitten food I can find. Rare is the dog willing and able to resist the wafting wonderfulness that awaits. I proudly proffer the pill in the tin of tastiness and move away. Nine out of 10, I exit the exam room a winner.

I hope these tips and tricks help you give your dog medication and crown you “Tamer of Tablet Takers.” Whatever type of dog you have or tactic you choose, make the experience as pleasant as possible. Many dogs needing meds may not feel well, making swallowing pills even more of a chore. Bring out your culinary creativity, take it slow, be patient, and always be kind when dealing with a tough tablet taker.

When You Gotta Give It

Inevitably there are times you have to “pop the pill” due to urgency or emergency.

1. With one hand, gently grasp the muzzle from above, being careful not to place the dog’s lips or your fingers underneath the teeth.
2. Gently tilt the head back, releasing the lower jaw. With the medication held firmly between index finger and thumb, use your remaining fingers or lower edge of your hand to softly open the jaw.
3. Place the pill as far into the mouth as possible, aiming to drop it on the back third of the tongue. Immediately close the mouth, holding the jaw closed with your hand.
4. Softly massage the throat to encourage swallowing and allow you to verify the pill is “bottoms up.”
5. Finally, win the experience by offering a high-value food reward.

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Do Dogs Get Jealous?

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Jealousy was once considered a strictly human emotion, but some people think dogs feel it, too.

A study published in April in the journal Psychological Science wanted to test how dogs display jealous behavior. First, each dog watched their owner next to a fake dog. Next, a barrier blocked the dog’s view of the fake dog while the owner appeared to pet the pretend dog.

Even when the dogs couldn’t see the rival dog, they displayed jealous behavior (forcefully attempted to reach their owner), which indicated they were acting jealously over an imagined scenario, something that’s never been demonstrated before.

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Take Your Walk to the Next Level

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Looking for a fun, new way to work out with your dog? There’s an app for that! CardioCast, an audio fitness app that offers nearly 2,000 on-demand fitness classes, has unveiled a series of unique new workouts that invite users to “Walk & Jog with Your Dog.”

Getting some fresh air and exercise while walking your dog is nothing new. “But what we’re doing is pumping it up to the next level and creating something more challenging and beneficial, with the help of the latest tech,” says Doug Lotz, CardioCast CEO.

New York City-based fitness coach and CardioCast’s VP of Content Jonathan Carlucci has devised the new workouts in collaboration with his dog Benji, who wears his own canine activity monitor that tracks his number of steps and has a personal step goal of 11,000 a day.

Having a canine workout buddy can be helpful for those struggling with motivation. CardioCast is available on iPhone or Android via the App Store and Google Play, with a $9.99 monthly membership or $89.99 yearly membership. Learn more at web.cardiocast.app/dog-workouts.

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Meet the 2021 Wagalicious Photo Contest Winners

The post Meet the 2021 Wagalicious Photo Contest Winners by dogedit appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

After receiving more than 1,000 entries and 13,000 votes, we have our amazing winners in this year’s categories of Dirty Dog, Silly Dog and Happy, Healthy Pup. The competition was so good, in fact, we just had to publish the finalist photos, too. Enjoy these pawesome pics as much as we do!

Winners of each category will receive a variety of prizes from Vetericyn Animal Wellness, Morris Animal Foundation and Myos Pet.

Silly Dog Winner: Kathryn Dunlap & Romeo

“This is Romeo, my 180-pound, 3-year-old Neapolitan Mastiff,” Kathryn “Kat” Dunlap tells Dogster. Romeo loves donuts, Puppuccinos, car rides, food off the grill and his dog sister, Pearl.

Kathryn calls herself a stay-at-home dog mom. “Believe me, that’s a full-time job!” she says. “I love gardening and swimming with the dogs.

Kat and husband Rick also have an 11-monthold, brindle Great Dane girl named Pearl. “Romeo wanted a tiger, but this was the best we could do. I don’t think Romeo knew having a little sister was going to be so exhausting. Be careful what you ask for!”

Follow Romeo on Instagram @romeo_ricardo and Facebook @Romeo Ricardo Fan Club.
Sponsored by Myos Pet

How did she capture this shot?

“I captured the shot after I found this perfect donut headband. Everyone knows his love for donuts and my love for silly pictures.”

Dirty Dog Winner: Linda Garrison & Reign

Reign is a 4-month-old Sable/White Border Collie. Linda Garrison tells Dogster, “She is a very active and smart little girl. When she gets older, she’s going to be my son’s jogging partner. We are also interested in agility and other dog sports.”

A retired dog groomer, Linda now gets to spend her time taking photos, which she loves to do. “I also do some drawings and woodburnings of some of the animals I take pictures of.” Reign is actually Linda’s grandpuppy. “My son got her because he fell in love with my Border Collie, Frankie,” she says.

“Reign is turning out to be such a wonderful girl, too.”

Linda has her own dog, Frankie, and her cat, Zins.

Follow Reign on Instagram @reignthebordercollie.
Sponsored by Vetericyn

How did she capture this shot?

“We had stopped at a creek to get a drink. Reign found some black mud and was playing and shoving her face right in it. I had to get a picture. She looked so cute and proud of herself.”

Happy, Healthy Pup Winner: Rachel Brix & Apache and Emerson

Apache, on the left in the photo, spent 986 days in a rural shelter, mainly due to behavioral issues, Rachel Brix tells Dogster. “He’s made incredible strides the past three years. He’s about 7 years old and a Staffordshire Terrier/Rat Terrier/Chihuahua mix. He loves agility, hunting for lizards, and he has his Novice Trick Title.”

Emerson was dumped at a shelter with a broken leg, giardia and a hookworm infestation when she was only about 8 weeks old. The family adopted her not long after, and she is about 10 years old. She is a mix of St. Bernard, Manchester Terrier, Cocker, Chow, Otterhound, Harrier and Bull Terrier! She has competed in agility, loves scent work and also has her Novice Trick Title.

Rachel and husband Ryan own and operate a small dog boarding and enrichment facility. “All of our children have four legs,” she says. “When I’m not goofing around and playing with my own dogs, I love to read, garden and golf. Apache, Em and I are working on their Intermediate Trick Titles.” They also have three rescue cats, two of which do some agility as well.

Check out Apache on Instagram @pitchthepooch Apache, Emerson and Rachel on Facebook @Rachel.Brix.9.
Sponsored by Morris Animal Foundation

How did she capture this shot?

“We were practicing our tricks and they both wanted the treat I had. I thought they both looked so cute, and I don’t have many pictures of the two of them together both facing forward at the same time, let alone both smiling!”

Behind the Camera!

We had a great time with our fourth annual Wagalicious Photo Contest and thought you’d like to see some of the faces behind our finalists.

Beach Day for Dirty Dog finalist Finnegan and his human mom, Crystal Conway.

Silly Dog finalist Ruby being cute with human mom, Magdalena Cormier.

Hannah Halbert sent us this sweet family photo including Happy, Healthy Pup finalist Titan.

Silly Dog category winner Romeo with his human dad, Rick.

Dirty Dog finalist Teegan getting some cuddles from human mom, Monica Williams.

A nice and clean Dirty Dog finalist Clancy going on an adventure with his human mom, Jenny O’Day.

Photo Contest Runners-Up

Thank you to all of this year’s talented photographers and their pretty pups who took the time to enter.

Denise Vickers & Opal Ann / Silly Dog

Stephanie Zigler & Winston / Happy, Healthy Pup

Jenny O’Day & Clancy / Dirty Dog

Ashley & Geordi C La Forge / Silly Dog

Monica Williams & Teegan / Dirty Dog

Hannah Halbert & Titan / Happy, Healthy Pup

Magdalena Cormier & Ruby / Silly Dog

Diana Villarreal & Cheddar / Happy, Healthy Pup

Sara Bell & Packer / Happy, Healthy Pup

Joni Cohen & Kiddle / Silly Dog

Lisa Renee Ludlum & Kona Bear / Dirty Dog

Crystal Conway & Finnegan / Dirty Dog

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Think Your Puppy Will Grow Out of Bad Behaviors? Think Again.

The post Think Your Puppy Will Grow Out of Bad Behaviors? Think Again. by Jill Breitner appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

Most people think puppy behaviors are so darn cute — chewing on shoes and hands, jumping up on us and guests — that they don’t think to teach them how to behave appropriately early on. In reality, this lack of teaching appropriate ways of being is unintentionally reinforcing these unwanted behaviors and why they grow into them, not out of them. The only reason for puppies to become destructive chewers, be out of control, jump on people or playfully bite us is because we don’t start teaching appropriate behaviors right away.

Train from Day One

Puppies are growing and able to learn at a very early age. In fact, training begins the minute we bring puppies into our lives at 8 weeks of age. The myth that training puppies shouldn’t start until they are 6 months old couldn’t be farther from the truth. The myth gained traction because puppy classes didn’t begin until puppies were fully vaccinated, and this didn’t happen until they were 6 months of age, in the days of old. Thankfully, over the past decades, we have gleaned much about the importance of early puppy development, enrichment, socialization and training.

Today, thanks to studies by veterinary behaviorists and dog experts, we now realize the importance of early training and socialization, beginning as soon as they are able to see and hear, at about 3 weeks of age. Some more ethical breeders are even starting the process before dogs go into their new homes. They are learning from their littermates, mother, their environment and their caregivers how to be a dog, socialize with each other, other species and, of course, us. This early training continues from the moment we bring them home, through to maturity, between 1½ to 3 years of age.

What this means is that puppies are learning appropriate and inappropriate behaviors based on how we are raising/teaching them, in these early weeks. It’s up to us, as their guardians and advocates, to teach them the behaviors we want rather than correcting behaviors that we don’t want.

The right environment

Puppies explore their world through their noses and mouths. You can say that puppies see their world via their noses. Those noses are capable of smelling up to 100,000 times better than humans, and we need to allow for this by creating a safe and enriching smell-sensitive environment. Often, what puppies smell goes directly into their mouths; that’s why puppy-proofing your home before he arrives is crucial to properly raising a puppy.

What many may perceive as bad behaviors are just normal puppy exploration behaviors that need to be redirected to behaviors that we do want instead of thinking that we need to punish them for normal, instinctive puppy behaviors.

©goldenKB | Getty Images

Common puppy behaviors

✤ Playful biting: Puppies play with each other by biting and wrestling with their littermates, and when they leave their littermates this behavior doesn’t just go away. This is normal, natural and instinctive play, and when we wrestle with them, allowing them to bite even playfully, we are actually encouraging a behavior that will bite us in the butt (pun intended) later on.

Since playful biting is a normal and necessary behavior, it would behoove us to make sure that we give our puppies ample one-on-one dog play time, so they have the opportunity to behave like a normal puppy and wrestle with other puppies, which will help them not do this instinctive and necessary playful biting on us.

✤ Destructive chewing: Destructive chewing is not synonymous with raising puppies. Because puppies see their world through their noses and mouths, they will put anything and everything in their mouths. If we don’t properly supervise them and offer them appropriate toys and chews to chew on, we are unintentionally reinforcing a normal behavior to become a destructive behavior.

✤ Jumping on people: Puppies jump all over their littermates, so for them it’s normal play behavior. A puppy flying through the air, leaping into our laps is laughed at and then snuggled, unintentionally reinforcing a behavior that we will later regret.

Tips to stop these unwanted behaviors

Playful biting: Provide an outlet for your puppy. Find other friendly dogs/puppies for them to play with the way they want and need to play. Redirecting them to a toy or game of fetch or tug-ofwar will go a long way to keeping their mouths off of us.

Destructive chewing: Supply them with appropriate chew toys, enrichment puzzles and games to help teach them what they can chew on and what they can’t. Being proactive in raising a puppy will go a long way to not having a destructive chewer as an adult.

Jumping on people or furniture: It’s up to us to teach how we want them to interact with us. Teaching an alternate behavior like sit or not engaging them when they jump, only engaging when they have all four feet on the floor, is reward enough to repeat a behavior that gains our attention.

Puppies repeat behaviors that work for them. If we don’t engage them while they are jumping but remain quiet and not give eye contact until they have all fours on the ground, they will quickly learn that keeping their feet on the ground gets our attention. Being proactive by meeting your puppy’s instinctive physical, mental and emotional needs will set a precedent for appropriate behaviors that will manifest into a healthy, well-adjusted adult dog.

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Doggie & Me Halloween Costumes

The post Doggie & Me Halloween Costumes by Ellyce Rothrock appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

If your dog is the kind who enjoys wearing sweaters and more or less happily tolerates your dress-up tomfoolery, this Halloween tag-team your costume. Just be sure it’s not too tight or hot — and don’t let your pup steal any of your Halloween treats.

Big bee, little bee

Here’s an easy-peasy, beezy costume. Human costume and doggie bee-licious costumes, T-shirts or hoodies available at Amazon.com.

Baby Shark!

Do the “baby shark doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, doo” as a dog and human shark costume duo.

Little Red Riding Hood and Wolf

Your dog already has the big teeth — all he needs is a little more wolf while you don a cute dress and red cape. Frisco has a Front Walking Werewolf Dog Costume (chewy.com) that takes him from woof to wolf.

©Stockchildren; AA Film Archive | Alamy Stock Photo

Elle and Bruiser Woods

“I’m Elle Woods and this is Bruiser Woods, and we’re both Gemini vegetarians. Whoever said orange was the new pink was seriously disturbed.” Find all the Elle Woods pink you need to brighten your Halloween at Amazon.com (find Bruiser’s costume here, too).

©Jose Luis Pelaez Inc | Getty Images

Belle and Her Beast

Tell the tale as old as time — a girl’s love of her dog — with a Beauty and the Beast dog costume from Rubie’s (at chewy.com). Your pup goes as the beast and with a lovely yellow gown, you’ll be the Belle of your own Halloween ball.

©Oleksiy Boyko | Alamy Stock Photo

Daenerys and Dragon(s)

Play the Game of Thrones as Daenerys and be the mother of dog-gons. Shop her look at Amazon.com; get a dragdog look with the blue Frisco Dragon Dog Costume at chewy.com.

Bootacular!

Go old school, as nothing says Halloween more than the Count. Dracula costumes at Amazon or HalloweenCostumes.com. Find Dogula costumes at Amazon and the Frisco Vampire Cape at chewy.com.

©Oleksiy Boyko | Alamy Stock Photo

Play Doctor

Is there a dog-tor in the house?! Hit the Halloween parade as the cutest nurse and doctor human/dog team this side of Grey’s Anatomy. Or, for extra cuteness, have one of you play the patient.

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How To Be a Better Teammate to Your Dog

The post How To Be a Better Teammate to Your Dog by Paul J. Kearney appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

The human half of the dog-human team is important. Beyond the love we give our dogs and how we meet their needs, there are specific skills we can improve on to help our dogs learn more successfully.

You can be better for your teammates if your timing is better and if you understand how reinforcement works. Dogs are as reliable with us as we are with them; the reliability of any given behavior increases at the same rate as its reinforcement history does.

Your furry teammates enjoy playing with you, so make time for play. It’s good to accomplish goals, but if you’re not having any fun, it’s just a struggle — and nobody enjoys struggling.

As training starts with us, we must set the example for our learners. To be a better teammate, we need:

Great timing: Having good timing is great, but having great timing is beautiful. There are certain moments when a dog’s behavior that we find desirable occurs. A good human teammate stays engaged and is ready to mark and reinforce desirable behaviors as they happen, so as to have those exact moments associated with a paired future verbal cue. This is why we need good timing.

To remember to mark: Marking behavior is to give a signal to a learner (your dog) after a behavior occurs. The signal can be a verbal “Yes” or a click with a clicker. The timing of marking a behavior is like taking a perfect sunset photograph right as the sun hits the horizon. The sun is setting on its own, all you can do is be prepared to mark the exact desired moment that you enjoy the sun setting that you want to capture in time.

To always reinforce: The positive marker is then followed by a reinforcer. A reinforcer is something your dog finds rewarding, that she enjoys. Ideally it is something tangible you can give to her within a few seconds after using the signal marker of approval — like a tasty treat or a favorite toy.

Disclaimer: As with everything, there is a light and dark side. That said, I do not believe in non-reward markers, or negative markers. Pointing out what someone is doing wrong does not help with learning what they can improve upon on the path of doing anything in a better way. I understand this human linguistic habit, I just do not use them in how I communicate.

Why reinforce

I use continuous reinforcement when introducing a new behavior. Each marked desired behavior gets a reinforcer. Once the learner understands what’s going on, I then evolve (shift) to variable reinforcement, which means switching around between ratios of 1:2, 1:5, 1:1 and 1:3. I want the dogs I am training to be motivated, so not giving something each time but doing so variably increases motivation.

I adjust to each individual learner. I can tell if the dog is frustrated that I am not issuing enough reinforcers when I lose her attention or focus. I then increase my rate of reinforcement to keep her happily involved.

However, there are certain high priority behaviors, like recall, that always get a reinforcer from me.

About reinforcers

I use a mix of primary and secondary reinforcers. A typical primary reinforcer is something tangible, like food, which is both accessible and everybody needs it. A secondary reinforcer is something that is associated with a positive consequence or outcome, like praise, such as saying “Good girl!”

Toys also fall into the category of secondary reinforcers, as the dog associates feel-good emotions of play with certain toys. My youngest dog learns really well when I use a ball in certain situations as a reinforcer. For dogs who love a certain toy, the toy can then play the role of a primary or tangible reinforcer instead of an item of food.

Why make learning fun?

“Play is often talked about as if it were a relief from serious learning. But for dogs, play is serious learning. Play is really the work of puppyhood.”

Fred Rogers said this statement about children, and it is one of my favorite quotes of his, but I changed two words as it rings true for dogs, too. This very principle can easily be understood and is important to keep in mind when we are helping dogs with learning something new or practicing something we have previously introduced.

If your dog is ever struggling when learning, lower the criteria and make it more simple. Sometimes that means taking a break. For example, if you’re trying to walk your dog and she is just so excited and pulls toward everything, that doesn’t mean there needs to be a battle of wills. We need to understand our dog’s needs in the moment. What is the function of the behavior (the pulling)? If it is dangerous, we need to manage it; if it’s not dangerous, it’s OK that in this moment things are not working out as planned. I love to have a plan, I love to achieve goals — that doesn’t mean they are going to happen immediately or go as planned.

It is perfectly OK, and sometimes it is the absolute best idea, to stop if things aren’t working out well. You can always go back and try again. When things aren’t working out and everyone is frustrated, learning is less likely to happen.

Our dogs are never truly giving us a hard time, they are having a hard time. There’s no need to give them a hard time about having a hard time.

There are lots of ways of turning learning into games: recall games, find-it games, wait-and-go games like red light/green light, take it/drop it to trade and many more. Be creative about helping learning happen.

I also believe in recess, keeping sessions short, breaking up the time with play and having fun. Lots of learning happens when we’re having fun.

I absolutely love this quote from NBA Hall of Fame coach and player Phil Jackson about teamwork: “The strength of the team is each individual member, the strength of each individual member is the team.” Understand that you are a member of a team with your dogs for life. Your teammates rely on you to be at your best. Go, team!

Differential Reinforcement

Differential reinforcement is reinforcing an incompatible or alternative behavior. This is why a good human teammate must remain engaged. You need to keep your focus on desired behaviors. If your dog is doing something you do not enjoy her doing, request her to do something else instead, and reinforce that desired behavior. For example, ask your dog to sit instead of jumping up on you.

This is not reinforcing or rewarding bad behavior. All behavior has a function. To your dog, what she is doing is not bad, she is a dog doing dog things. Differential reinforcement is teaching a learner what is desirable in any given situation so that it is more likely to be repeated.

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Holiday Gift Guide

The post Holiday Gift Guide by Melissa L. Kauffman appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

Fun for Fido:

Treat

Holiday Mini Tubes | $5.99. polkadog.com

Season’s Eatings Turkey & Cranberry Recipe | $10.99. polkadog.com

Groom

Andis Excel Cordless Clipper | $330.89. andis.com

Drink

Teddy Pet Bowls | $70/small and $85/ large. enchantedhome.com

Wear

Disney Mickey Mouse Dog & Cat necktie | $8.55. chewy.com

Sleep

Fable’s Medium-Sized Crate (25-50) | $595. fablepets.com

Keep safe

Clear Freestanding Pet Gate Zig Zag | $445/six panel. shophiddin.com

Fun for You:

Decorate

Animals in Suits Art Prints | $9.98. Kazaloop shop at etsy.com

Hang with care

Personalized Dog Bone Christmas Stocking | $16.99. TwinsDesignStudio at etsy.com

Trim the trees

Bubble Bath Buddies | $27.99. Beloved Pet Ornament | $17.99. oldworldchristmas.com

Protect

Happy Ride Door Protector and Happy Ride Bench Seat Cover | $24.95/door and $27.95/bench. petsafe.com

Write

Vana Chupp Studio Silhouette Flat Pet Notecards | $38/20 custom cards. vanachuppstudio.com

Deck the halls

Vana Chupp Studio Silhouette Ornaments | Starts $95. vanachuppstudio.com

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Oodles and Oos!

The post Oodles and Oos! by Elizabeth Anderson Lopez appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

First of all, what exactly is a designer dog? “A designer dog is a purposeful cross between two purebred dogs,” says Michele Brodsky, public relations director of the Australian Labradoodle Association of America (ALAA), which protects the welfare of Labradoodles and Australian Labradoodles. “A crossbreed, or designer dog, breeds two different recognized pure breeds together, resulting in dogs with a wider variety of genetics than a purebred dog. A purebred dog is a dog that has been bred for many generations to an official breed standard resulting in predictability and consistency in offspring.”

While “crossbreed” is often the term used for these mixes, Rhode Islandbased Kathryn Lee, Goldendoodle breeder and author of Goldendoodle, sees a distinction. “A crossbreed can refer to any combination of genetics, naturally occurring in nature, without much thought or intentional purpose, in the offspring. Conversely, a designer dog is ‘purely’ bred with great thought in combining qualities of two or more closed genetic pool breeds, to enhance good characteristics of the parents in the offspring.”

Who wants some Poodle?

Most popular designer dogs would not exist without the Poodle — the peanut butter to various jellies in these crosses. Mostly that’s because of the low-shedding, low-allergen coat. However, although Poodles definitely are a better option for allergy sufferers, there is still some risk. Kathryn says it cannot be guaranteed that a certain dog won’t shed or that a certain person won’t have a reaction. “Even hairless dogs can cause allergies, and dog saliva is more of a culprit than dander can be. A good allergist will tell clients that there is no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog per se.”

According to Miriam Fields Babineau’s book, Labradoodle, it’s not just the Poodle’s coat that makes it desirable. After all, the Portuguese Water Dog and Bichon Frise are other low-shedding breeds.

It’s also because the Poodle has a long history far beyond the foufou stereotype of fancy haircuts and ribbons. “It is also the breed’s temperament and behavioral tendencies. Poodles are intelligent, work-driven and loyal,” the book states. “They are eager to learn. They are one of the oldest breeds known to modern man, having been used as hunting partners to retrieve water fowl, as they are spectacular swimmers.”

All the Poodle crosses have a reputation for being good with families. But size matters. If you have an energetic household that loves outdoor activities, you may prefer a larger dog. Conversely, smaller dogs may be too fragile for small children. And because Poodles come in multiple sizes, from tiny toys to statuesque standards, they can be crossed with other breeds both large and small. The most popular designer crosses are Goldendoodles (Golden Retriever and Poodle) and Labradoodles (Labrador Retriever and Poodle).

Labradoodle. ©Eriklam | Getty Images

While their popularity exploded more recently, they were first developed in the 1970s. Given that time frame, it may appear as if that era’s shag rugs were the inspiration; however, Goldendoodles and Labradoodles were first developed to be service dogs, a trait that continues to this day.

“Labradoodles are smart, focused, friendly, intuitive and easy to train to make them suitable for therapy and service dog work,” Michele says. “They are often used as seizure alert dogs, emotional support dogs and disability service dogs.”

Interestingly, Labradors are already part Poodle. They were originally developed from crosses between Newfoundlands, Poodles and Water Spaniels, according to Labradoodle.

The Labradoodle’s coat can be curly, wavy or woolly. The woolly, or fleece, coat is the one of choice for allergy sufferers. The most common coat colors are black or gold and tan. Others include cream, apricot, silver, red, blue and brown.

Again, the size of the Poodle used in breeding tends to dictate the size of the Labradoodle. Labradors bred with a Standard Poodle might result in males weighing 55 to 80 pounds, with females being 45 to 60 pounds. There are even variations within sizes. For example, if a larger Miniature Poodle is used, the weight of the offspring could range from 40 to 55 pounds. If a small Miniature Poodle is used, that drops to 26 to 55 pounds.

The other very popular large-breed doodle, Goldendoodles, come from Golden Retrievers and Poodles, both with strong hunting, retrieving and water-loving backgrounds. Both breeds are very smart and easily trained.

While not AKC-recognized, many of the designer dog crosses do have “breed standards.” According to Kathryn, the guidelines for standard-sized Goldendoodles are males weighing 55 to 75 pounds, with females 45 to 65 pounds. Goldendoodles sired by Miniature or Toy Poodles range from 25 to 45 pounds. In those instances, the Poodle is the stud via artificial insemination and the Golden Retriever is the mother. Goldendoodles come in more colors than they don’t: They are found in white, cream, black, silver, brown, light and dark apricot, and multicolor.

Goldendoodle. ©Nature Picture Library | Alamy Stock Photo

Hybrid Vigor

The term “hybrid vigor” has been used by many to describe these breed crosses. Rhode Island-based Kathryn Lee, Goldendoodle breeder and author of Goldendoodle, explains: “Hybrid vigor happens when you breed within or across breeds to produce higher levels of heterozygosity in offspring than in their parents, which results in general vigor and vitality. “Inbreeding is when you breed close relatives together to set certain traits in a breed. However, inbreeding results in homozygosity, which causes a loss of vigor by slowly and steadily compromising the health and productivity of the breed over generations.”

There are many more doodle mixes and all are ridiculously cute. Remember, because they all are part Poodle, it means these dogs will be intelligent and energetic. If you are looking for a couch potato dog, these are not your match. Check out these other popular doodles:

Aussiedoodle: Combination of Poodle, usually Standard or Miniature, and Australian Shepherd. They come in three sizes: Toy, Miniature and Standard and range from 10 to 45 pounds. Known for being friendly, clever and highly active.

Australian Labradoodle: This is a mix of Labrador Retriever, Poodle and Cocker Spaniel. They come in three sizes: Standard, Medium and Miniature plus two coat types: fleece and wool. Both coat types are low to non-shedding, so allergy strugglers looking for an intelligent and trainable dog gravitate toward this dog.

Schnoodle: While both Schnauzers and Poodles come in different sizes, a Schnoodle is often a cross between a miniature Schnauzer and a Miniature Poodle. They do need daily exercise, but their small size lends them to life in a condo or apartment.

Schnoodle. ©Eriklam | Getty Images

“Oo” la la!

For whatever reason, the larger crosses have oodle names, while the smaller dogs are oos. And those smaller crosses are no less popular, with Cockapoos and Yorkipoos leading the pint-sized pack. These crosses, too, are plagued by myths. As author Mary D. Foley states in her book Cockapoo, “The Cockapoo is a hybrid, not a mutt. A mutt is a dog of unknown parentage.”

The book also points out that the Miniature Poodle is most often used, along with Cocker Spaniels, of course, adding, “Like Poodles, Cockers have excellent noses for scenting, and are great swimmers and retrievers. They are also known to be very intelligent and quick learners.”

But there is a big difference that allergic prospective owners should be aware of: Cocker Spaniels tend to shed. A LOT. So, again, depending on the exact dog’s genetics, it may be more Poodle or more Cocker in that regard. Micheline Clawson, a pup advisor and trainer specializing in Maltese and Yorkie mixes, based in Ocala, Florida, heartily recommends the smaller “oo” crosses. “They’re very good for allergy sufferers,” she says. “They’re a nice size for apartments or carrying with you and traveling. People love the various colors that are possible. They are great for a first-time dog owner!”

Micheline has personal experience with Yorkipoos — a full Yorkie with a full Toy Poodle. “I have raised and bred Yorkiepoos, first generation, 20-plus years ago before they called them a designer breed.”

She can also attest to their popularity with others, even those who may not seem obvious. “I’ve never found a man yet that didn’t like a Yorkiepoo,” Micheline says. “They’re great for kids and men because they love to play, fetch balls and are active but not crazy.” She also touts them for not barking much, generally not being stubborn and having easy coats to care for.

Can’t get enough oos? Here are several more popular ones:

Cavapoo: This crossbreed of a Miniature Poodle and a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a small dog that packs in high intelligence and high energy. They can make good therapy dogs with proper training and socialization. Also called Cavoodle or Cavadoodle.

Doxiepoo (or Dachsiepoo): With Dachshunds coming in smooth, longhaired and wire-haired coats, not to mention the body type difference between a Dachshund and a Poodle, there are several mysteries of how these puppies will look. Known for being playful, affectionate and easy to train.

Llasapoo: The fuzzy combination of a Poodle and Lhasa Apso. Even though this mix is considered low shedding, its coat will still need frequent brushing, perhaps daily.

Maltipoo: A mix of a Maltese with a Poodle, either toy or miniature. Often reported to maintain both puppy-like looks and enthusiasm throughout adulthood.

Maltipoo. ©jfphoto1 | Getty Images

Pekeapoo: No, not a hide-and-seek game — this is an extra cuddly looking Pekingese and Poodle that tends to grow to 10 to 15 pounds.

Pugapoo: With sizes ranging from 10 to 30 pounds, plus multiple coat colors and types, as well as variety in their tails (either curly or straight), you may be hard-pressed to find two Pug and Poodle crosses that look alike. Pugs are heavy shedders, so the low shedding qualities of the Poodle could be offset in the offspring, depending which parent passes on more dominant traits.

Pomapoo: Typically the offspring of a Pomeranian and a Toy Poodle, this is a tiny package of fluff at 5 to 15 pounds. Because of their small size, they are not ideal in households with small children who may play rough.

Shihpoo: Bless you! This cross between a Shih Tzu and a Toy or Miniature Poodle comes in many colors and two coat varieties — curly or straight. Their look and cuddliness has earned them the nickname of “teddy bear” dogs.

It doesn’t matter if you refer to your pup as a designer dog, a crossbreed or a rescue with unknown pedigree. All dogs are worthy of oodles of love.

‘Doo Diligence: What to ask

Just as with any breed of dog, a prospective owner should do their “doo diligence” when it comes to purchasing an oodle or oo cross. Many experts recommend asking the ‘oodle or ‘oo dog breeder for the following basics:

✤ At least three references.

✤ Written warrantees for health and temperament.

✤ Info on genetic tests that have been run.

Kathryn Lee, Goldendoodle breeder and author of Goldendoodle, elaborates on the health questions. “A wise buyer should ask breeders what research of parent lines have been completed to rule out known genetic problems they do not share and which genetics make them compatible.” She gives this example: If a breeder knows that the two parent lines are known for herding and needing lots of exercise, the offspring aren’t prime candidates for calm families or apartment dwellers.

It’s that kind of research that is part of the fee when getting a dog from a reputable breeder. “What you pay for a breeder includes the selection and meeting of the parents, raising the puppies and after-purchase support. They will be able to provide you with the parents’ hip and eye clearances,” Kathryn adds.

In contrast, unscrupulous breeders don’t research their parent breeds to make sure they’re good prospects for achieving offspring with hybrid vigor, Kathryn says.

If you’re specifically looking for an oodle or oo cross, you may not have much luck adopting. “They seldom wind up in shelters if created by responsible breeders, who ask that all their pups be returned directly to them and not a shelter,” Kathryn says.

“Australian Labradoodle Association of America Member Breeders are bound by our Code of Ethics to assist in the re-homing of one of their puppies should that become necessary,” confirms Michele Brodsky, public relations director of the ALAA. “This is part of responsible breeding. When looking for a puppy, families should look for breeders that belong to an organization that has rules, standards and ethics to protect the breed.”

Finally, expect a breeder to ask you some questions, as well, to assess your understanding of one of these crosses. “I don’t take a deposit but I demand education,” says Micheline Clawson, a pup advisor and trainer specializing in Maltese and Yorkie mixes, based in Ocala, Florida. “Knowledge is power when it comes to health.” She provides a free online course, which is a requirement to purchase a pup from her.

The post Oodles and Oos! by Elizabeth Anderson Lopez appeared first on Dogster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Dogster.com.

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